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Hilux N70
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How to sispension lift a B series (similar to A series)
by Drift on Tue Jul 17, 2012 6:54 pm
Required equipment
Hydraulic Trolley Jack
Pair of Axel Stands
Wheel Brace
Coil Spring Compressors with tool to adjust
Angle Grinder
Mole grips
Hammer
Large Screwdriver
Drill
14mm Drill bit
12mm,14mm,17mm,19mm Spanners
12mm,14mm, 17mm,19mm Deep Reach Sockets
1 and 1/16 inch or 27mm socket
Ratchet
Crack bar or Torque Wrench
Junior Hacksaw
Tape Measure
Method
Source the parts
After deciding to lift my B series Frontera I First needed to find the parts to do so, the shock absorbers are straight forward and easy to find but it was the rear coil springs that I soon found out were going to be a problem. I E-mailed about six company’s asking for a price for rear coils for my Frontera 1999 on +2” and received replies from all but one saying either cant help me or yes they can but only +1”. I then started posting messages on the Frontera Owners Group website for advice, one particular piece of advice was to fit Isuzu Trooper 5 door 6/94 on coils to my Frontera stating it would lift a B series 2”. At the same time I was surfing the internet I came about a Forum, and on this site was an Isuzu Rodeo with a 3”suspension lift and a 3” body lift belonging to an American called Randy Doerfler, so I E-mailed Randy asking his advice. He told me he had used Old Man Emu 912 coil springs and they had lifted his Rodeo +3”, I then contacted a company here that supply OME springs but was told I was wrong about the springs I needed OME 913 coils but they would only give me +1”. I contacted Randy again and he explained the company was right but the OME 912 coils are for an Isuzu Trooper but to keep cost down these are what there are fitting in the States. So now the Trooper coil idea had being confirmed by someone else, but more importantly I now have a choice.
Old Man Emu 913 +1”
Standard Isuzu Trooper 6/94 on +2”
Old Man Emu 912 (Trooper) +3”
I went for the standard Trooper 6/94 on coils and opted for a set of ES9000 shocks, +2” for the rear and +1” for the front, the fronts could of being standard size as they don’t limit the drop of the front end, I bought all parts from Explorer Pro Comp and the Price was £210.10p. When I contacted Explorer and explained about the Trooper Coils he said he would check it out and after a couple of hours confirmed that the Trooper coils had the same footprints of the Frontera coils and gave me another option,
Heavy duty Trooper coils + 40mm, that equates to a total of +3.5” as the standard coils give +2” if I am doing my sums right for around £30 more
I decided against this as the ride would be too hard and the lift would be too severe for me.
Frontera Preparation
Three times a week for two weeks I sprayed WD 40 on all nuts and bolts that I was going to have to adjust or remove when it came round to fitting the new coil springs and shock absorbers, don’t forget the torsion bar adjusting bolts. I would also advise you to jet wash the under side of your Frontera and wheel arches. Also with the vehicle on flat level ground I went to my local supermarket car park, measure the height of your vehicle from the ground to highest part of wheel arch and write the figures down, this is important as your front suspension is independent and one side might not be level with the other, you will need to know this to work out how many turns you adjust the torsion bar adjusting bolts to lift the front end to make sure it will be level.
Problems Encountered
Rear shock removal
Although the nut and bolts came out of the shocks bottom eyelet fixings ok (19mm socket) the top was another story, there is a flat on each side of the topmost part of the shock to put a spanner or in my case mole grips on to stop the shock spinning as you undo the nut (14mm spanner), because of corrosion the top sheared off forcing me to cut the protective sleeve of shock and grinding two flats onto the rod of the shock so my mole grips could grip and not spin, a nut splitter is another option but because of the position of the nut don’t know if it would be possible.
Rear coil spring removal/refitting
Although you only have to remove one coil with compressors as when one is out the axel will rotate upwards allowing the removal of the other by hand, the problem is space its rather tight to fit both compressors and compress them.
Fitting of new rear shocks
The only problems I came across was my shocks came with two poly bushes for the eyelet (bottom) end one fitted and one loose and one set of steel sleeves, the problem I had is the mounting point on the axel has a 14mm OD (outside diameter) and the sleeves I had had a 12mm ID (inside diameter) and the second set of poly bushes that came with the shocks had a 16mm ID. Because it was bank holiday weekend I did not know where to get the right size sleeves so I fitted the larger poly bushes and opened the sleeve up with hammer and screwdriver to 14mm ID as the sleeves are not welded where the two ends join. The other problem was when the shocks were in place was because of the increased thickness of the heavier duty new shocks they were sitting very close to the axel so I used the dished washer that came off the top mount of the old shock and drilled the hole out to 14mm and with the grinder ground a flat across the top edge to stop it fouling the shock in the future if the bush ever flex and fitted that onto the mounting point first between the axel and the shock. But now knowing this I would ask the supplier for both these items at point of ordering parts stating mounting point OD (14mm).
Front shock removal
I had the same problem as I had with the rears but because of the easier position of the top mounts on the front it allowed me to just cut through the nut/rod with the angle grinder or a nut splitter would work here if you prefer.
Fitting of new front shocks
The bottom has the same eyelet bush set up as the rears but the bolts are the right size OD so no problem with the steel sleeves to bolt fit, but I would suggest trying the sleeve into the mounting bracket to check it fits as mine had squeezed together slightly, but a few taps with the hammer realigned the brackets to allow the sleeve to fit. Also the poly bush looks too wide to fit in the bracket but it does go in its just very tight.
Rear removal/refitting
Firstly slightly loosen the wheel nuts on both rear wheels jack the vehicle up and place onto axel stands then remove wheel nuts and wheels. Remove the bolt that attaches the rear anti roll bar to the drop brackets on both sides you will need a 12mm spanner and socket for this, now remove the nuts and dished washers from the bottom shock mounts 19mm socket, now remove the nut on the top mount of the shocks if your lucky a 14mm spanner and a pair of mole grips if the top flatted area where you have placed mole grips shears off see problem encountered write up you can now remove the shocks. Now put spring compressors onto rear passenger coil spring and compress once compressed you can remove the coil, the reason I picked this one is the exhaust runs close to the driver’s side one limiting the space for the compressors, you can now remove the drivers side coil spring by jacking up passenger side of axel this will cause driver side of axel to lower allowing removal of coil without compressors.
Fitting is the reverse of removal but you have to make sure the coil springs locate into there mounts correctly on both top and bottom, the top ones are rubber and should be fitted to the new coil before refitting, the mounts are shaped to accommodate the end of the springs and don’t forget about the extra dished washer you are fitting to the bottom shock mounts if needed like mine.
Front removal/refitting
Like the rear place vehicle on axel stands and remove front wheels, the top mount of the shock is the same as the rear 14mm spanner and mole grips, if top shears see problems encountered write up, now remove nut and bolt from bottom mounts 17mm spanner and socket. Refitting is reverse of removal.
Now for the torsion bar height adjustment you don’t have to have the front wheels off but you will need the car on axel stands to take pressure off the torsion bars, under the vehicle around about where the rear of you front doors are is a large cross member with a large bolt head on each side of the vehicle, these are the adjusting bolts for the torsion bars. Rule of thumb is four complete turns on this bolt equals 1” of increased ride height so if you want to go up 1.5” that’s six turns, you will need 1-1/16” or 27mm socket and a crack bar, torque wrench or ratchet with bar slid over handle, I used a torque wrench as it is easier with the ratchet end and I also marked the socket with a black marker pen to make counting the turns easier. Adjusting the height by the torsion bars does adjust the camber setting of your wheels, the more you adjust the more the camber will go out so if you go to far your wheels would look like \ / if looking straight on from front this can be adjusted back with the use of spacers but I suggest to get a qualified person who knows and understands about wheel camber to do this. I adjusted mine 1.5” and I can tell my steering is slightly lighter and quicker to respond and my wheels still look like / \ .
I done this work to my Frontera alone but It would of being easier with two people and remember to double check all nuts and bolts are tight, I personally think my Frontera,s ride quality and body roll is much improved but this is a personal judgment and not a professional one.
Adjusting the ride height by the torsion bars does adjust the camber setting of your wheels, the more you adjust to increase the ride height, the more your wheel top will tilt in, this is called “negative camber”. This can be adjusted back with the use of spacers but I suggest getting a qualified person who knows and understands about wheel camber to do this. I adjusted mine 1.5” and I can tell my steering is slightly lighter and quicker to respond.
Submitted by
George
Alıntı için link http://www.fronteraowners.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=50564
How to sispension lift a B series (similar to A series)
by Drift on Tue Jul 17, 2012 6:54 pm
Required equipment
Hydraulic Trolley Jack
Pair of Axel Stands
Wheel Brace
Coil Spring Compressors with tool to adjust
Angle Grinder
Mole grips
Hammer
Large Screwdriver
Drill
14mm Drill bit
12mm,14mm,17mm,19mm Spanners
12mm,14mm, 17mm,19mm Deep Reach Sockets
1 and 1/16 inch or 27mm socket
Ratchet
Crack bar or Torque Wrench
Junior Hacksaw
Tape Measure
Method
Source the parts
After deciding to lift my B series Frontera I First needed to find the parts to do so, the shock absorbers are straight forward and easy to find but it was the rear coil springs that I soon found out were going to be a problem. I E-mailed about six company’s asking for a price for rear coils for my Frontera 1999 on +2” and received replies from all but one saying either cant help me or yes they can but only +1”. I then started posting messages on the Frontera Owners Group website for advice, one particular piece of advice was to fit Isuzu Trooper 5 door 6/94 on coils to my Frontera stating it would lift a B series 2”. At the same time I was surfing the internet I came about a Forum, and on this site was an Isuzu Rodeo with a 3”suspension lift and a 3” body lift belonging to an American called Randy Doerfler, so I E-mailed Randy asking his advice. He told me he had used Old Man Emu 912 coil springs and they had lifted his Rodeo +3”, I then contacted a company here that supply OME springs but was told I was wrong about the springs I needed OME 913 coils but they would only give me +1”. I contacted Randy again and he explained the company was right but the OME 912 coils are for an Isuzu Trooper but to keep cost down these are what there are fitting in the States. So now the Trooper coil idea had being confirmed by someone else, but more importantly I now have a choice.
Old Man Emu 913 +1”
Standard Isuzu Trooper 6/94 on +2”
Old Man Emu 912 (Trooper) +3”
I went for the standard Trooper 6/94 on coils and opted for a set of ES9000 shocks, +2” for the rear and +1” for the front, the fronts could of being standard size as they don’t limit the drop of the front end, I bought all parts from Explorer Pro Comp and the Price was £210.10p. When I contacted Explorer and explained about the Trooper Coils he said he would check it out and after a couple of hours confirmed that the Trooper coils had the same footprints of the Frontera coils and gave me another option,
Heavy duty Trooper coils + 40mm, that equates to a total of +3.5” as the standard coils give +2” if I am doing my sums right for around £30 more
I decided against this as the ride would be too hard and the lift would be too severe for me.
Frontera Preparation
Three times a week for two weeks I sprayed WD 40 on all nuts and bolts that I was going to have to adjust or remove when it came round to fitting the new coil springs and shock absorbers, don’t forget the torsion bar adjusting bolts. I would also advise you to jet wash the under side of your Frontera and wheel arches. Also with the vehicle on flat level ground I went to my local supermarket car park, measure the height of your vehicle from the ground to highest part of wheel arch and write the figures down, this is important as your front suspension is independent and one side might not be level with the other, you will need to know this to work out how many turns you adjust the torsion bar adjusting bolts to lift the front end to make sure it will be level.
Problems Encountered
Rear shock removal
Although the nut and bolts came out of the shocks bottom eyelet fixings ok (19mm socket) the top was another story, there is a flat on each side of the topmost part of the shock to put a spanner or in my case mole grips on to stop the shock spinning as you undo the nut (14mm spanner), because of corrosion the top sheared off forcing me to cut the protective sleeve of shock and grinding two flats onto the rod of the shock so my mole grips could grip and not spin, a nut splitter is another option but because of the position of the nut don’t know if it would be possible.
Rear coil spring removal/refitting
Although you only have to remove one coil with compressors as when one is out the axel will rotate upwards allowing the removal of the other by hand, the problem is space its rather tight to fit both compressors and compress them.
Fitting of new rear shocks
The only problems I came across was my shocks came with two poly bushes for the eyelet (bottom) end one fitted and one loose and one set of steel sleeves, the problem I had is the mounting point on the axel has a 14mm OD (outside diameter) and the sleeves I had had a 12mm ID (inside diameter) and the second set of poly bushes that came with the shocks had a 16mm ID. Because it was bank holiday weekend I did not know where to get the right size sleeves so I fitted the larger poly bushes and opened the sleeve up with hammer and screwdriver to 14mm ID as the sleeves are not welded where the two ends join. The other problem was when the shocks were in place was because of the increased thickness of the heavier duty new shocks they were sitting very close to the axel so I used the dished washer that came off the top mount of the old shock and drilled the hole out to 14mm and with the grinder ground a flat across the top edge to stop it fouling the shock in the future if the bush ever flex and fitted that onto the mounting point first between the axel and the shock. But now knowing this I would ask the supplier for both these items at point of ordering parts stating mounting point OD (14mm).
Front shock removal
I had the same problem as I had with the rears but because of the easier position of the top mounts on the front it allowed me to just cut through the nut/rod with the angle grinder or a nut splitter would work here if you prefer.
Fitting of new front shocks
The bottom has the same eyelet bush set up as the rears but the bolts are the right size OD so no problem with the steel sleeves to bolt fit, but I would suggest trying the sleeve into the mounting bracket to check it fits as mine had squeezed together slightly, but a few taps with the hammer realigned the brackets to allow the sleeve to fit. Also the poly bush looks too wide to fit in the bracket but it does go in its just very tight.
Rear removal/refitting
Firstly slightly loosen the wheel nuts on both rear wheels jack the vehicle up and place onto axel stands then remove wheel nuts and wheels. Remove the bolt that attaches the rear anti roll bar to the drop brackets on both sides you will need a 12mm spanner and socket for this, now remove the nuts and dished washers from the bottom shock mounts 19mm socket, now remove the nut on the top mount of the shocks if your lucky a 14mm spanner and a pair of mole grips if the top flatted area where you have placed mole grips shears off see problem encountered write up you can now remove the shocks. Now put spring compressors onto rear passenger coil spring and compress once compressed you can remove the coil, the reason I picked this one is the exhaust runs close to the driver’s side one limiting the space for the compressors, you can now remove the drivers side coil spring by jacking up passenger side of axel this will cause driver side of axel to lower allowing removal of coil without compressors.
Fitting is the reverse of removal but you have to make sure the coil springs locate into there mounts correctly on both top and bottom, the top ones are rubber and should be fitted to the new coil before refitting, the mounts are shaped to accommodate the end of the springs and don’t forget about the extra dished washer you are fitting to the bottom shock mounts if needed like mine.
Front removal/refitting
Like the rear place vehicle on axel stands and remove front wheels, the top mount of the shock is the same as the rear 14mm spanner and mole grips, if top shears see problems encountered write up, now remove nut and bolt from bottom mounts 17mm spanner and socket. Refitting is reverse of removal.
Now for the torsion bar height adjustment you don’t have to have the front wheels off but you will need the car on axel stands to take pressure off the torsion bars, under the vehicle around about where the rear of you front doors are is a large cross member with a large bolt head on each side of the vehicle, these are the adjusting bolts for the torsion bars. Rule of thumb is four complete turns on this bolt equals 1” of increased ride height so if you want to go up 1.5” that’s six turns, you will need 1-1/16” or 27mm socket and a crack bar, torque wrench or ratchet with bar slid over handle, I used a torque wrench as it is easier with the ratchet end and I also marked the socket with a black marker pen to make counting the turns easier. Adjusting the height by the torsion bars does adjust the camber setting of your wheels, the more you adjust the more the camber will go out so if you go to far your wheels would look like \ / if looking straight on from front this can be adjusted back with the use of spacers but I suggest to get a qualified person who knows and understands about wheel camber to do this. I adjusted mine 1.5” and I can tell my steering is slightly lighter and quicker to respond and my wheels still look like / \ .
I done this work to my Frontera alone but It would of being easier with two people and remember to double check all nuts and bolts are tight, I personally think my Frontera,s ride quality and body roll is much improved but this is a personal judgment and not a professional one.
Adjusting the ride height by the torsion bars does adjust the camber setting of your wheels, the more you adjust to increase the ride height, the more your wheel top will tilt in, this is called “negative camber”. This can be adjusted back with the use of spacers but I suggest getting a qualified person who knows and understands about wheel camber to do this. I adjusted mine 1.5” and I can tell my steering is slightly lighter and quicker to respond.
Submitted by
George
